famous for designing
Cloud Gate, inspired
Fendi’s latest line.
Printed lizard bootie ($1,295)
Painted metallic sandal ($965).
In blocked bands of cream, mandarin, and mustard, an abstract motif resembling the letter “F” jets across structured leather overcoats, shift dresses, and crew-neck blouses. The linear silhouettes of pencil skirts, cigarette trousers, and oversize jackets dominate Fendi’s new collection and direct attention to the remarkable construction of the garments and accessories. Led by Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi, and inspired by British sculptor Anish Kapoor, the Fendi design team used progressive techniques such as saldatura, or electrical welding, instead of traditional stitching, to create pieces that appear to be seamless, a process Kapoor also relied on when fusing together the 168 steel plates of our beloved Cloud Gate. The sculptor’s signature manipulation of space and form is captured in the reflective surface of the Bean, which mirrors and distorts the surrounding Windy City skyline.
Translating a similar effect into Fendi garments, geometric cuts and overlapping hemlines are cast in eye-catching metallic materials, lending a spectacular depth and three-dimensionality to the collection. Nowhere is the reference to Kapoor’s work more clear than in the artfully crafted open-toe booties, slingbacks, and pumps that paraded down the spring runway. Several come with a pair of color-blocked detachable uppers to allow for multiple styling options. One particularly striking pair achieves a futuristic vibe with a reflective, silver heel covered in rows of studs and a gold band atop a black and white toe box. A more demure bootie features a matte gray studded heel and three tiers of mustard, peach, and camel on the uppers, creating a distinctly vintage feel. A ladylike canary-yellow pump with a tricolor studded heel is most abstract, with its cornflower and teal uppers highlighting the collection’s daring spirit.
All exquisitely eye-catching in their own right, these architectural accessories will become the focal point of any ensemble, inviting onlookers to admire their beauty and innovation. Sounds like a certain Millennium Park sculpture we know. Barneys New York, 15 E. Oak St., 312-587-1700
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SCOTT OLSEN/GETTY IMAGES (CLOUD GATE)