Tailoring details from the Nicholas Joseph atelier
There are so many suit shapes and styles out there—what would you suggest for a day-to-day suit for a man with an average build? NICHOLAS JOSEPH HANSEN: A slim-fit navy or mid-gray suit with a two-button jacket, side vents, a fun lining, slight contrastcolor buttonholes (to bring out the detail while maintaining the integrity and business appropriateness of the suit), functional-cuff buttonholes and flat-front pants with no cuffs.
What are the new trends in suiting? NJA: Fitted suits still rule and always should, in my opinion. Suit lapels are moving back to traditional widths, higher on the shoulder (to broaden the chest and add vertical appeal) with a gorgeous hand-pick stitch. Last year we saw the return of the pocket square and finally the Midwest guys are embracing it! Pair a contrast color shirt and sport coat with a cotton or linen pocket square during the day and wear fun, colorful silks at night. Right now we’re placing fall orders for colorful patterned sports coats to be paired with jeans and collared shirts for dinner and a night out.
What rules should a man follow when purchasing a suit? NJA: If the shoulders don’t fit, don’t buy it!
Make sure the jacket is not too short or long—this part most likely can’t be altered, so keep looking if it doesn’t feel right. NJA: A man’s jacket sleeve should allow a quarter to a half inch of his shirt cuff to show.
As a general rule, suit pant length should be a quarter inch above the top of the heel; however, shorter and “smarter” lengths might be considered as well. Trousers tend to be baggy when you buy them off the rack. Have the legs tapered to match the slim look of your jacket—great-looking clothing is all about keeping everything in proportion.