Chef Conlon's barbecue quail consomé
It starts with a mysterious email stating a time, a location and a few special instructions. At said location, a discreet attendant ushers an invited few inside as other formally dressed guests mill about and chat excitedly. Long communal tables are set for service and the names of ingredients seldom seen in mainstream restaurants are scrawled onto a chalkboard. A bell rings; dinner is on.
This is the scene at an underground pop-up dinner presented by X-Marx Chicago, a members-only club of adventurous eaters. Its philosophy is simple: Food is entertainment. The club focuses on a communal, relaxed atmosphere, an interaction between the chef and the guests and, of course, the food itself, which can include such dishes as duck tongue and veal brain.
But the most interesting aspect of X-Marx is its air of mystery. Varying venues and creative, ambiguous menus based on what offal, delicacies and produce are available at the moment contribute to its mystique and often come together at the last minute.
Executive chef Abraham Conlon says it is all about the element of surprise. Guests can see the evening’s ingredients on the chalkboard, but are given no clues as to what the composed dishes will be. “I want to cook food for people who care,” says Conlon. “And the people who come here are serious foodies.”
Those “serious foodies” have registered and been accepted to X-Marx Chicago. (Anyone can register, but only some meet the qualifications for membership.) Only the first 28 people to respond to an invite snag a seat at the culinary event.
