Banish the memory of saccharine-sweet liquid in a giant crystal bowl, along with dubious sherbet-flavored concoctions dotted with floating fruit. While its roots hark back to the early 1800s, today’s punch is a potent blend of spirits, fruit, and spices, and it’s anything but dated.
 
  Women sip punch from a bowl at a costume party

“[Back in the day,] someone who could craft a proper punch was looked on as an artisan,” says Charles Joly, chief mixologist at The Drawing Room (937 N. Rush St., 312-266-2694; thedrchicago.com). In fact, the art of mixology, born more than 200 years ago, started with perfectly balanced punch recipes. In his subterranean cocktail lounge, Joly adheres to the traditional principles of crafting the historical drink.

“There’s an oft-cited theory that the word ‘punch’ comes from the Hindi word for five, paanch, and that the drink should incorporate five key ingredients— citrus, spice, sweetener, spirits, and a dilutant. I try to make sure I include all of those things and honor the classic preparation,” Joly says.

The three punch options on his menu offer contemporary interpretations of time-honored recipes, including Claret Punch and Planter’s Punch, although a punch called Guild Meeting is Joly’s own creation. The drink blends 100-proof rye whiskey, fresh citrus, vanilla sugar, chai tea, ginger liqueur, and Drambuie. The potent libation is designed for four to six guests to enjoy in an intimate imbibing experience. “There’s something nice about the communal aspect of punch and everyone drinking from the same bowl as they have for centuries,” says Joly. “It’s a sign of community.”

At the Trump International Hotel & Tower Chicago’s Rebar lounge (401 N. Wabash Ave., 312-588-8034; trumpchicagohotel.com), bottle service can arrive sans bottles. Instead, silver punch bowls are brought tableside with glasses, an ice bucket, and sparkling water. “We call the bar a liquid kitchen, and the punch bowl is a good medium for bringing people together,” says Michael Koury, Rebar’s manager and recipe developer. “Since day one, punch-bowl service has been our signature. I like the unexpected element.”

Sangria, typically relegated to a pitcher, gets the Trump treatment as one of its most popular punches, Flor Blanco. A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Trump vodka, St~Germain elderflower liqueur, and a medley of citrus and strawberries, the punch has a fruity, floral taste. Koury believes the aesthetic is equally important. “It has to be a balance between flavor profile and appearance—we make it just as beautiful to look at as it is to drink.”

In the new Lincoln Park mixology bar The Barrelhouse Flat (2624 N. Lincoln Ave., 773-857-0421; barrelhouseflat.com), co-owner and head bartender Stephen Cole (an alum of The Violet Hour) brings his passion for punch to the forefront with a rotating seasonal menu of three offerings. Served in glass bowls, stainless steel antique pitchers, from a punch cart, and by the glass, the recipes follow the classic formulation, “one of sour, two of sweet, three of strong, and four of weak.” The sour element typically comes from lemon or lime juice, while the sweet flavor is usually derived from a simple syrup or oleo sacrum (oil extracted from citrus peels with sugar). When it comes to the strong element, traditional punch recipes favor potent spirits like bourbon, gin, or brandy. The Barrelhouse Flat bartenders follow this “punch build” to achieve balance, although even the “weak” ingredient can contain alcohol, from fortified wines to liqueurs. “At the end of the day, [all of our punches are] pretty darn boozy,” says Cole.

For a history lesson, both Cole and Joly reference famed cocktail historian and author David Wondrich’s tome, Punch: The Delights (and Dangers) of the Flowing Bowl. And while Cole’s punches reflect current tastes, he did refer to historical volumes like the half-century-old Official Mixer’s Manual by Patrick Gavin Duffy; the Bartenders’ Manual and a Guide for Hotels and Restaurants, written by Harry Johnson and originally published in 1882; and The Gentleman’s Table Guide: Wine Cups, American Drinks, Punches, Summer & Winter Beverages by E. Ricket and C. Thomas, circa 1871.

Recipe: Rebar's Flor Blanco Punchbowl
Enjoy Rebar’s famous punch at home, courtesy of bar manager and recipe developer Michael Koury.

3 bottles Sauvignon Blanc
1 bottle St~Germain liqueur
1/2 bottle Trump vodka
1 box strawberries
3 peaches
3 apples
2 oranges

Cut the fruit into bite-size pieces and place in your serving bowl. Top with the liquids. Stir and serve on ice.